Located just outside the city of Siem Reap, Angkor Wat is a major symbol in Cambodia; it appears on the flag, on coins, posters and just about anything else you can name. The site was reopened in 1991 after nearly two decades of closure due to civil unrest. The best way to start a tour of Angkor is to visit Phnom Bakheng in time for sunset. Not only is admission free, but you can get your pass made, avoiding the crowds the next day.

Get up early the following day and hire a moto with a driver for the day so that you can travel in style. Head straight to Angkor Thom, which is surrounded by a vast moat, before moving on to the Terrace of the Elephants, which is over 300 metres long.

Next, follow a path deep into the jungle to Preah Khan, which is a very pretty ruined temple before travelling to Neak Pean, which symbolises the lake at the top of the universe.

It is impossible to view all of Angkor’s many wonders in one day, so be selective. Climb to the top of Preah Rup, then perhaps onwards to Ta Keo.

It is best to allow around four hours to see Angkor Wat properly, so perhaps devote the following day to exploring this magnificent temple. Angkor Wat took approximately thirty years to complete and is 65 metres tall, covering an area of 500 acres. The moat which surrounds the temple is an incredible 200 metres wide, while the causeway is 250 metres long.

The mighty Wat is built on several levels. The Gallery features 1,000 Buddhas where Buddha effigies of all descriptions line the corridors, while the temples picture galleries display scenes from Hindu epic texts the Ramayana, the Battle of Kurukshetra, and other epic scenes such as the Judgement of Heaven and Hell. 1,500 apsaras or ‘heavenly dancing girls’ wonderfully decorate the second level interior.

The top level was originally reserved for the King and High Priest. 480 steep steps lead up to the five towers, which lie waiting like the Holy Grail at the end of a virtuous quest. Ascend the 70 degree angled steps carefully and walk around the outer gallery, enjoying the magnificent view, which is incredible from all angles. Watch the sun set before slowly descending once more.

The small city of Siem Reap is the best place to stay if you intend to visit the Angkor Wat complex. There are a number of good places to stay and accommodation comes in all shapes and sizes, from budget backpacker haunts to luxurious hotels.

Most places will be able to arrange passes and accommodation to the Angkor Wat complex as well, as guides and a range of other services. There are numerous decent restaurants in Siem which offer a wide variety of international cuisine and bars to hang out in the evening.

Before you visit Angkor, stop by Miniature Replicas, where you will see sculptures of all the temples situated in a lovely garden. This is a good way to get an idea of how much there is to see and plan your time accordingly. There are also a number of modern temples situated around Siem Reap, such as Wat Bo with its beautiful paintings and former royal palace Wat Dam Nak, which provide an interesting contrast to the wonders of Angkor.

Getting here is easy as Siem Reap is connected to the rest of Cambodia by bus and it is also possible to catch a bus directly from parts of Bangkok and Vietnam. Most people find it difficult to leave Siem Reap and you need to allow at least three days to explore it thoroughly.

The ancient temple complex of Sambor Prei Kuk predates those at Angkor and this is a good place to visit before heading to see Cambodia’s national monument. Originally known as Isanapura, Sambor Prei Kuk was the capital of Chenla during the reign King Isanavarman in the early 7^th century.

Sambor Prei Kuk contains more than one hundred red brick temples scattered through a pretty forest. Cool shade is provided by the thick vegetation, making this a pleasant place to explore slowly. Follow the sandy paths through the forest, which lead to ponds and shrines as well as quietly crumbling temples.

The temples at Sambor Prei Kuk are divided into three large groups. The main one is Prasat Sambor, which is dedicated to an incarnation of Shiva known as Gambhireshvara. Most of these temples are intricately carved and adorned with female fertility symbols known as yonis.

Situated in the heart of the forest, the Prasat Yeay Peau group is extremely peaceful, while Prasat Tao – also known as Lion Temple – is one of the largest temples in Sambor Prei Kuk and features two large lions carved by the Chenla people.

There is a craft shop near the entrance to Sambor Prei Kuk where you can pick up a souvenir or two and learn more about this interesting site. There are also a number of food stalls where you can buy a basic meal and a cold drink.

The main part of this interesting complex can be explored in two or three hours, although it is worth taking the time to soak up Sambor Prei Kuk’s unique atmosphere and explore each temple in detail.

Sambor Prei Kuk is located about 30 kilometres to the north of the town of Kompong Thom. This is a good place to spend the night and get a decent meal before heading off to Siem Reap to explore the mighty Angkor temple complex.

People are generally friendly and honest and roads are much better than they have been in recent years. However, you still need to apply a certain amount of common sense when travelling through Cambodia and there are a few things to watch out for or avoid.

Avoid drinking tap water and drinks with ice in Cambodian. Bottled water is cheap and easy to find.

Although the countryside is currently being cleared of landmines, Cambodia is one of the world’s most heavily mined countries and there are believed to be somewhere between four and six million unexploded landmines scattered around the country. Although this is not so much of an issue in towns and large cities, it is best to stick to clearly marked paths in the countryside and take a guide if you are exploring off the beaten track.

Although Cambodia is now mostly peaceful, there are occasional outbreaks of violence. Make sure you read the local newspapers and avoid political gatherings and demonstrations.

Theft can be a problem in Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville and Siem Reap, be particularly careful at night and choose to travel by taxi instead of moto or cyclo.

Police do occasionally try to coerce bribes out of tourists, especially at borders and check points and if you are driving a motorcycle you may be stopped and told to pay a fine. You can usually get out of paying the fine or reduce it considerably if you are polite yet firm and make eye contact. The police have also been known to plant drugs on tourists in order to get fines. If you are set up, don’t panic. They are generally just looking for money and with a lot of patience the situation can be sorted out. Try to pay the fine before you get to the police station to keep the fine to a minimum.

Avoid deals that seem too good to be true such as buying ‘precious gems’ as they are often worthless stones that have been chemically treated. There is also a lot of counterfeit medication around, so only buy from trustworthy pharmacies and clinics.

The riel is Cambodia’s official currency and comes in 50, 100, 500, 1,000, 5,000, 10,000, 50,000 and 100,000 riel notes. The 500 and 1,000 riel notes are the most commonly used and high denomination notes such as 50,000 and 100,000 riel are difficult to change in most places, except for perhaps exclusive hotels and restaurants and of course banks.

Although small items are usually paid for with riel, things such as hotel rooms and meals are charged in US Dollars and it is usually more convenient to carry dollars. Thai Baht is also accepted in towns near the Thai border. Take good care of your notes as torn and crumples riel and Dollar bills will be refused.

Costs:

Cambodia is a little more expensive to travel in than many other places in Southeast Asia such as Thailand and Laos, but it is still cheap compared to western countries. If you’re on a strict budget you can get away with spending as little as $10 per day, although this will only buy the absolute basics and $25 a day will allow you a few small luxuries. Those who can afford to spend $100 per day will be able to stay in some of the country’s top hotels and dine in style, while for those with a real taste for luxury $200 a day should be more than enough.

Changing your Money:

There are banks located in all major towns and it is easy to change Euros, Yen, Baht and a number of other currencies. The banks tend to charge a slight commission and generally speaking money changers offer a better rate than the banks. It’s worth shopping around for the best deal. Only change money as you need it as it is very difficult to change money from riel into other currencies unless you are willing to pay a high price.

ATMs:

ATMs are a recent addition to Cambodia and can be found in most major cities and tourist hubs such as Sihanoukville, Siem Reap and Phnom Pehn. However, ATMs only take Visa and MasterCard and dispense US Dollars.

Travellers’ Cheques and Credit Cards:

Most banks and fancy hotels in Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh will accept traveller’s cheques and credit cards. It is hard to find places to accept these forms of payment elsewhere in the country though, so stock up when you can.

Also known as Stoeng Treng, this little town in north-eastern Cambodia is a good place to stop on the way to or from Laos. This is a great place to walk around and makes a fine introduction to Cambodia as well as a place to say a final farewell.

This area is well known for its weaving and there are many places around town where you can watch fabric being woven in the traditional way and perhaps pick up a bargain or two. The sunset in Stung Treng is simply spectacular, and this is a great time of day to meet people and chat over a beer or two as the sky suddenly fills with colours as the sun slowly sinks behind the horizon.

There are a number of pretty places to visit just outside Stung Treng. Walk four kilometres to Thala Bariwatt and you will find the Preah Ko temple, which was built in 7^th century during the reign of King Javarman I.

Just six kilometers away, the village of Hang Kho Ba is a great place to walk to. There is a pretty pagoda known as Hang Kho Ba and this is a good place to try locally grown tamarind fruit and pava fish. There are also a couple of nature reserves nearby namely Phnom Preah Theat and Anlong Trey Phsot, which are great places to explore.

Stung Treng is ideal for those who want to relax and recharge their batteries for a day or two. There are a number of comfortable guesthouses here as well as bars and restaurants to indulge in. simply lay back in a hammock and listen to the wind in the trees for an hour or two or catch up on some reading.