Archive for September, 2009

Staying healthy

Cambodia presents a variety of potential health risks to foreign visitors and corresponding precautions need to be taken to ensure protection against serious and potentially life-threatening diseases. Those travelling for short periods in the country should seek vaccinations against Typhoid and Yellow fever from a hospital or general practitioner in their country of residence. Additionally those seeking to spend longer periods and possibly to travel into rural areas should be immunised against Japanese encephalitis and those who might engage in intimate contact with locals should be immunised Hepatitis B. Rabies vaccinations are a consideration for those intending to come into contact with animals while current tetanus immunisation is a must for all travellers.

Malaria and Dengue Fever are present in Cambodia and visitors should take necessary precautions to avoid both. Malaria tablets, whilst coming with some harsh side-effects, are a sensible course of action; you can discuss which one’s are appropriate with your doctor or find further advice on your own consulate’s website. Since Dengue cannot be protected against with oral medication, it’s essential to wear mosquito repellent at all times, especially in the evenings and when situated close to still sources of water.

Water-borne diseases present various risks to visitors and water for both internal and external purposes should be treated with careful consideration. It’s unwise to swim or bathe in untreated water sources and chlorinated pools should be considered the only exclusion to this rule. Water from taps and showers can be considered acceptable for cleaning the body externally only. For the purpose of drinking, bottled water is cheap and readily available and should be used for cleaning the teeth also. It’s unwise to trust tap water in any circumstances, even if it’s been boiled, as its differing chemical composition can be enough to upset the stomachs of those not adjusted to it.

Cases of diarrhoea and upset stomachs are common among foreign visitors and this can be due to poor levels of hygiene in food preparation or food with high volumes of spices. Normally symptoms subside after 24 hours and can be controlled with over the counter medications; however extreme cases may require hospital treatment.

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Cambodia overview

Despite decades of suffering, persecution and poverty, the people of Cambodia love to laugh and you are sure to receive a warm welcome wherever you wander through this charming country. The Kingdom of Cambodia covers 181,035 square kilometres and bordered by Thailand to the west, Laos in the north, Vietnam in the east and the Gulf of Thailand in the south.

Most people travel to Cambodia to visit the magnificent Angkor Wat, located near the bustling town of Siem Reap. One of the seven wonders of the world, Angkor Wat is just one in a number of enchanting ancient temples in this area, while the capital city of Phnom Penh also has plenty to offer visitors.

Despite being bordered on virtually all sides, there are still some pretty islands and beaches to explore in Cambodia, such as the beach resort of Sihanoukville and the nearby islands in Ream National Park. The mighty Mekong River flows through Cambodia from Laos to Vietnam and is a great way to travel through the country.

Cambodia’s natural beauty makes it a great place for trekking and there are plenty of dense jungles, unspoilt forests and paddy fields to explore, while the Cardamom and Elephant Mountain Ranges provide a spectacular backdrop.

Subsistence farming is the main occupation of this impoverished nation, and most people live in stilted huts in small village communities. Although the majority of people (about 95%) are Khmer, there are also about twenty different hill tribes, each with their own unique culture, believes and style of dress.

The official language of Cambodia is Khmer and it is spoken by most people, while some people also speak French, Laos and Vietnamese, especially near the country borders.Although many people speak English in tourist areas and you will often be approached by people who want to practice their English, it is a good idea to learn a few basic phrases in Khmer.

Buddhism is the main religion in Cambodia, with about 90% of the population following either Therevada or Hinayana Buddhism. Worship is an important part of Khmer life and you will find a large number of temples scattered around Cambodia, although a large percentage were destroyed during the tyranny of the Khmer Rouge.

Cambodia really comes alive during the numerous festivals and public holidays, and it is idea to time your trip to coincide with one of these festivals as the streets are filled with singing and dancing and people put on their best clothes and biggest smiles


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Food and drink

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Unlike in many Asian countries, food in Cambodia isn’t very spicy and is flavoured with herbs such as lemon grass and coriander rather than liberal doses of chilli. Rice is the staple diet and is served with a range of rich curries, soups and stews.

Local food is cheap, tasty and easy to find, with small food stalls setting up all over Cambodia, especially in night markets. International food is widely available in tourist areas such as Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville, where you will find everything from pizza to sushi.

Here is a selection of dishes that you will discover as you travel through Cambodia:

Amok trey – this creamy fish curry is wrapped in banana leaves and steamed and is also made with pork of chicken sometimes.

Lou – short, thick noodles with added egg and chicken.

Ban Hoaw – a Cambodian version of Chinese spring rolls, steamed Vermicelli noodles are mixed with mint, crushed peanuts, pickled vegetables and rolled together before being deep friend, cut into bite sized pieces and covered with sweet fish sauce.

Caw – this is a slightly sweet braised pork or chicken and egg stew flavoured with caramelized palm sugar.

Babar – particularly popular as a breakfast dish, this rice porridge is usually made with chicken or pork and served with fresh bean sprouts and spring onions. Bai cha – a tasty dish of fried rice with Chinese sausage.

Cha knyey – spicy chicken stir fry flavoured with julienne ginger root, black peppers and fresh peppers. There is also a beef version beef version with crushed peanuts and dried ground Thai peppers, which is rather spicy.

Kralan – for many travellers this traditional desert made from steamed rice mixed with beans or peas, grated coconut and coconut milk is an acquired taste as it combines sweet and savoury flavours.

Avoid drinking tap water and drinks with ice in Cambodian. Bottled water is cheap and easy to find. Green tea is popular in Cambodia and served free with most meals in restaurants.

Dtai grolab is a strong tea drink made by heaping tea leaves in the bottom of a glass and brewing them by turning the glass upside down with a saucer on top. Indian tea is sometimes available and coffee is available, although it is usually served iced and you need to specify if you want it hot by saying ot dak tuk kork.

Alcohol is generally cheap and widely available, especially in the Karaoke bars that grace every town. Beer is served in most restaurants and night market stalls, while most Khmers drink cheap, very sweet and incredibly strong rice wine. Drink with extreme caution!

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Celebrations

Cambodia really comes alive during its festivals and public holidays, which usually last for several days and involve a lot of eating and drinking as well as traditional dance performances, singing and the wearing of colourful costumes. Khmer people love to get foreigners involved in the fun and it is a good idea to try and time your trip so that you can join in with at least one of them.

Many people travel to the capital from the countryside to celebrate major festivals and Phnom Penh can get rather crowded during this time, although that is all part of the fun. This is a time for people to get together and forget their hardships for a while. Most festivals are based on Buddhist and Hindu traditions and feature colourful firework displays as well as a visit to the temple.

Here are some festivals to put in your diary:

National Day:
Held on January 7th, this holiday marks the end of the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror.

Chinese New Year:
Celebrated in late January or early February, this festival is especially colourful and features parades through the street and fireworks.

Khmer New Year:
This festival takes place in the middle of April and marks the end of the harvest. Houses are decorated, family feasts are held and people take to the streets to dowse each other with water and shoot each other with water pistols as a way of blessing them.

Royal Ploughing Day:
This agricultural nation puts high value on the ox and this May festival celebrates the mighty animal. There is a cultural ceremony in the large park next to the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh and also in front of the National Museum.

King Sihanouk’s birthday celebration:
The great king is honoured on October 31st when people gather by the Royal palace and also along by the river. People travel from all over Cambodia to be in the nation’s capital on this day.

Water Festival:
The perfect way to beat the heat, this festival in late October lasts for three days and features the racing of colourful boats on the Monkong River and Tonle Sap, fireworks and also water fights. Expect to get very wet during this festival and buy a water pistol to join in the fun. The best places to experience the full force of this vibrant festival are in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, near Angkor Wat.

Independence Day:
People travel to the Independence Monument at the junction of Norodom and Sihanouk Boulevards November 9th to celebrate Cambodia’s independence from France in 1953.

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Eastern Cambodia

Bordered by Vietnam, the eastern region of Cambodia is scattered with picturesque hill tribe villages. This is a good place for hiking and there is plenty of natural beauty to discover such as waterfalls, caves and forests.

Many people head straight to the town of Kratie to watch the Irrawaddy dolphins swimming in the river, while the town of Stung Treng is also a good place to relax for a while.

The mighty Mekong River runs through this region and travelling by boat is a great way to reach many of the area’s towns and cities. Fish is plentiful here and the local market is a great place to find freshly cooked fish dishes.

The region’s proximity to Vietnam means that visitors will discover an interesting blend of Khmer and Vietnamese styles in many of the border towns, which is particularly apparent in the designs of the temples, clothes and food. Spend some time in eastern Cambodia before hopping across the border to discover an entirely different side of life.

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Social situations

The Khmer people highly value manners and respect, especially regarding religion. They are warm and welcoming by nature and will generally forgive foreigners for their mistakes, but taking the time to learn the local customs will make a big difference to your travel experience.

Clothing:
Even though the weather is hot, people in Cambodia dress conservatively, especially around temples. Men should always wear a shirt in public and women should avoid wearing shorts and sleeveless shirts around holy sites. Take off your shoes before entering temples or other religious monuments and place them neatly outside the doorway.

In the Temple:
Be careful in your treatment of Buddha images as they are extremely sacred. It is better to avoid touching them altogether but if you do have to touch them, handle with extreme care and never touch someone’s personal Buddha statue or amulet unless you are invited to. When sitting on the floor in a temple you must be careful not to point your feet at a Buddha image. Sit with your legs crossed or with your feet tucked to the side with the soles pointing backwards. There are certain parts of the temple that you may not be allowed into or cannot touch or sit on. Look for signs or follow the examples of others if you are unsure.

Monks:
Women must be careful not to touch monks as they are forbidden female contact. If a woman wants to give something to a monk it must first be given to another man or put on a piece of cloth. Monks have to be careful to observe this, even when interacting when their mothers and sisters.

At Home:
The people of Cambodia are famous for their hospitality and you will probably be invited to share a meal or even stay overnight with a Khmer family at some point during your journey. Make sure you remove your shoes before entering a home and do not point at things with your feet or rest them on furniture as this is considered to be an insult. You should also avoid touching people on the head.

Showing Affection:
Public displays of affection such as kissing and holding hands can be offensive to Khmer people as they don’t generally show affection in public to people of the opposite sex.

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Bokor National Park

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For many, the stunningly beautiful Bokor National Park is one of the highlights in their trip to Cambodia. Follow treks through the jungle for the chance to spot a variety of wildlife such as elephants and tigers and pause to swim in the cool cascading water of sparkling waterfalls and to appreciate the views from high hills. Easily reachable on a day trip from Sihanoukville or Kampot, this is a great place to get back to nature.

Officially named Preah Monivong National Park, Bokor covers 1,581 square kilometres of protected land, consisting of dense forest. Birdwatchers will be particularly at home here and may be lucky enough to spot the rare chestnut-headed partridge and green peafowl. There are also a number of hornbill species living here as well as animals such as the leopard, Malayan sun bear, pileated gibbon, porcupine, slow loris and red muntjac deer.

There is plenty to see as you trek through the forest. Among the park’s main attractions are the Popokvil Falls and the French hill station, which was built in the 1920s as a former retreat from the heat of the plains, although it has now been abandoned. Other places of interest include the ruins of the Black Palace and a pretty church nestled amongst the trees.

Although Bokor National Park is believed to be free from landmines, it is best to use caution and stick to well worn paths, no matter how strong the call of the wild may be. You can also hire a guide to take you through the park if you prefer.

The area was established as a national park in 1993. Although there is still substantial threat from illegal logging and poaching, the area is finally starting to win the war, and the dollar and awareness created by tourism is making a big impact.

Bokor Palace Hotel is a good place to spend the night if you arrive at the national park last and want to explore in the early morning. There is also a good selection of food available in the hotel’s restaurant, while fortunes are made or lost in the attached casino. Those on a tight budget can stay in the Ranger Station and cook a basic meal on the camp stove there.

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Prasat Preah Vihear

Also known as known as Khao Phra Wiharn or Sacred Monastery, Prasat Preah Vihear is one of Cambodia’s most striking monuments from the Angkorian period. This 800 meter temple is situated at an elevation of 730 meters and offers spectacular views across Cambodia to the scared mountain of Phnom Kulen.

Prasat Preah Vihear is an important pilgrimage site and was build to represent Mount Meru where many important deities are believed to reside. Climb the monumental stairway and pause to appreciate the detailed carvings that adorn the temple.

Look out for the Gopura on the third level, which displays an early rendition of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk. The temple sits atop Pey Tadi, which is a rocky cliff in the Dângrêk Mountains on the border between Thailand and Cambodia, providing interesting views into both countries.

Many people take a picnic with them so that they can enjoy the stunning views from the top while they eat. The large market place at the foot of Prasat Preah Vihear is a good place to buy freshly cooked food and snacks.

Prasat Preah Vihear is a great place to visit on the way into Cambodia from Thailand or just before you leave the country. For a really memorable adventure, travel to Prasat Preah Vihear by helicopter from Siem Reap.

The sunset is spectacular from the top of the temple and it is worth sticking around at the end of the day to see it. The nearest town to Prasat Preah Vihear is Kantharalak. Here you will find a number of basic guesthouses, restaurants and pretty places to explore, making this a good place to spend the night.

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Ream National Park

Ream National Park is the most established National Park in Cambodia. Located about 12 miles from Sihanoukville, the park has been open since 1993. Ream covers 21,000 hectares; 15,000 hectares of land and 6,000 hectares of river and sea. Here you will find secluded beaches, tropical jungles and wide rivers. Over 155 species of bird call Ream home, as well as Sun Bears, the endangered elongated tortoise, eagles and even dolphins.

A boat trip through the national park is the perfect way to see the natural beauty of this charming area. Sail away down the Prek Tuk Sap River in a small motorboat, sheltered from the hot sun by a canvass roof. The scenery is spectacular and the banks of the river are lined with mangrove forests. There is plenty of wildlife to see such as beautiful green kingfishers, monkeys hooting in the trees and purple jellyfish.

As you glide slowly along the river, you will pass people digging in the river bed for shellfish and fishing from small boats. After a couple of hours, you will arrive at Koh Som Poch Beach, where you can swim or sunbathe while lunch is prepared.

Walk for about an hour through tropical jungle rich with plant life and you will come to the Thmor Thom fishing village. The buzz of cicada beetles is loud and exoticly beautiful butterflies flutter through the forest.

Ream’s intense natural beauty leads many people to set up home here and the population has doubled in the last eight years. This means that resources such as wood, herbs, fish and fruit are seriously over-used. There is also the problem of illegal logging and poaching to deal with. Fortunately, with the revenue from tourism coming in, Ream’s future finally seems bright. Logging and fishing have been curbed. The depleted forests are regenerating, providing much needed habitat for many birds and animals.

Tours to Ream National park can be booked all over Sihanoukville. The tour costs $12 including transport, breakfast, lunch and entrance fee. Alternatively, you can choose to go on one of the park’s Eco Tours. The $25 fee includes a two-hour trek to Meditation Mountain. This place of worship offers great views of the park.

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