The ancient temple complex of Sambor Prei Kuk predates those at Angkor and this is a good place to visit before heading to see Cambodia’s national monument. Originally known as Isanapura, Sambor Prei Kuk was the capital of Chenla during the reign King Isanavarman in the early 7^th century.

Sambor Prei Kuk contains more than one hundred red brick temples scattered through a pretty forest. Cool shade is provided by the thick vegetation, making this a pleasant place to explore slowly. Follow the sandy paths through the forest, which lead to ponds and shrines as well as quietly crumbling temples.

The temples at Sambor Prei Kuk are divided into three large groups. The main one is Prasat Sambor, which is dedicated to an incarnation of Shiva known as Gambhireshvara. Most of these temples are intricately carved and adorned with female fertility symbols known as yonis.

Situated in the heart of the forest, the Prasat Yeay Peau group is extremely peaceful, while Prasat Tao – also known as Lion Temple – is one of the largest temples in Sambor Prei Kuk and features two large lions carved by the Chenla people.

There is a craft shop near the entrance to Sambor Prei Kuk where you can pick up a souvenir or two and learn more about this interesting site. There are also a number of food stalls where you can buy a basic meal and a cold drink.

The main part of this interesting complex can be explored in two or three hours, although it is worth taking the time to soak up Sambor Prei Kuk’s unique atmosphere and explore each temple in detail.

Sambor Prei Kuk is located about 30 kilometres to the north of the town of Kompong Thom. This is a good place to spend the night and get a decent meal before heading off to Siem Reap to explore the mighty Angkor temple complex.

People are generally friendly and honest and roads are much better than they have been in recent years. However, you still need to apply a certain amount of common sense when travelling through Cambodia and there are a few things to watch out for or avoid.

Avoid drinking tap water and drinks with ice in Cambodian. Bottled water is cheap and easy to find.

Although the countryside is currently being cleared of landmines, Cambodia is one of the world’s most heavily mined countries and there are believed to be somewhere between four and six million unexploded landmines scattered around the country. Although this is not so much of an issue in towns and large cities, it is best to stick to clearly marked paths in the countryside and take a guide if you are exploring off the beaten track.

Although Cambodia is now mostly peaceful, there are occasional outbreaks of violence. Make sure you read the local newspapers and avoid political gatherings and demonstrations.

Theft can be a problem in Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville and Siem Reap, be particularly careful at night and choose to travel by taxi instead of moto or cyclo.

Police do occasionally try to coerce bribes out of tourists, especially at borders and check points and if you are driving a motorcycle you may be stopped and told to pay a fine. You can usually get out of paying the fine or reduce it considerably if you are polite yet firm and make eye contact. The police have also been known to plant drugs on tourists in order to get fines. If you are set up, don’t panic. They are generally just looking for money and with a lot of patience the situation can be sorted out. Try to pay the fine before you get to the police station to keep the fine to a minimum.

Avoid deals that seem too good to be true such as buying ‘precious gems’ as they are often worthless stones that have been chemically treated. There is also a lot of counterfeit medication around, so only buy from trustworthy pharmacies and clinics.

The riel is Cambodia’s official currency and comes in 50, 100, 500, 1,000, 5,000, 10,000, 50,000 and 100,000 riel notes. The 500 and 1,000 riel notes are the most commonly used and high denomination notes such as 50,000 and 100,000 riel are difficult to change in most places, except for perhaps exclusive hotels and restaurants and of course banks.

Although small items are usually paid for with riel, things such as hotel rooms and meals are charged in US Dollars and it is usually more convenient to carry dollars. Thai Baht is also accepted in towns near the Thai border. Take good care of your notes as torn and crumples riel and Dollar bills will be refused.

Costs:

Cambodia is a little more expensive to travel in than many other places in Southeast Asia such as Thailand and Laos, but it is still cheap compared to western countries. If you’re on a strict budget you can get away with spending as little as $10 per day, although this will only buy the absolute basics and $25 a day will allow you a few small luxuries. Those who can afford to spend $100 per day will be able to stay in some of the country’s top hotels and dine in style, while for those with a real taste for luxury $200 a day should be more than enough.

Changing your Money:

There are banks located in all major towns and it is easy to change Euros, Yen, Baht and a number of other currencies. The banks tend to charge a slight commission and generally speaking money changers offer a better rate than the banks. It’s worth shopping around for the best deal. Only change money as you need it as it is very difficult to change money from riel into other currencies unless you are willing to pay a high price.

ATMs:

ATMs are a recent addition to Cambodia and can be found in most major cities and tourist hubs such as Sihanoukville, Siem Reap and Phnom Pehn. However, ATMs only take Visa and MasterCard and dispense US Dollars.

Travellers’ Cheques and Credit Cards:

Most banks and fancy hotels in Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh will accept traveller’s cheques and credit cards. It is hard to find places to accept these forms of payment elsewhere in the country though, so stock up when you can.

Also known as Stoeng Treng, this little town in north-eastern Cambodia is a good place to stop on the way to or from Laos. This is a great place to walk around and makes a fine introduction to Cambodia as well as a place to say a final farewell.

This area is well known for its weaving and there are many places around town where you can watch fabric being woven in the traditional way and perhaps pick up a bargain or two. The sunset in Stung Treng is simply spectacular, and this is a great time of day to meet people and chat over a beer or two as the sky suddenly fills with colours as the sun slowly sinks behind the horizon.

There are a number of pretty places to visit just outside Stung Treng. Walk four kilometres to Thala Bariwatt and you will find the Preah Ko temple, which was built in 7^th century during the reign of King Javarman I.

Just six kilometers away, the village of Hang Kho Ba is a great place to walk to. There is a pretty pagoda known as Hang Kho Ba and this is a good place to try locally grown tamarind fruit and pava fish. There are also a couple of nature reserves nearby namely Phnom Preah Theat and Anlong Trey Phsot, which are great places to explore.

Stung Treng is ideal for those who want to relax and recharge their batteries for a day or two. There are a number of comfortable guesthouses here as well as bars and restaurants to indulge in. simply lay back in a hammock and listen to the wind in the trees for an hour or two or catch up on some reading.

Featuring uninhabited tropical islands, clean beaches, wooded mountains, caves, waterfalls and a pretty colonial town, Kampot in one of the most stunningly beautiful provinces in Cambodia. The town of Kampot features a large number of colonial French buildings and is a great place to spend a day or two.

The town of Kampot is situated on the banks the pretty Tuk Chou River with the towering Bokor and Elephant mountains behind. As you explore you will discover a number of attractive Cham fishing villages and impressive French and Chinese buildings as you walk through the narrow streets in the town.

A good way to explore this area is to go on a cruise down the Tuk Chou River. Simply stretch out and relax as the scenery glides past. There are a number of caves to explore around Kampot and the sparkling waterfalls are a great place to take a swim and cool down.

Those with a strong sense of adventure will want to ride the rapids at Teuk Chrreu, where there is a series of rapids and waterfalls to raft down or simply swim and relax in the cool, clear water. There are a number of food stalls here and this is the perfect place for a picnic.

Kampot is famous for its pepper plantations and most of the local farmers are happy to show people around and proudly show off their spice gardens. Simply hire a bicycle and explore at your leisure, pausing to take in the impressive views along the way.

There are a number of bars and restaurants along the banks of the river and this is a good place to relax with a meal and a drink or two while you watch the sun slowly slip behind the mighty mountains at the end of the day. Fresh seafood is top of the menu and is prepared in a number of different ways, with the lingering French and Chinese influences adding an interesting twist to traditional Khmer dishes.

This traditional village is located in the heart of in the Cardamom Protected Forest, making the perfect place for those who want to get back to basics and try a range of outdoor activities. Set up by the Wildlife Alliance to introduce eco-tourism to the area and give the residents a much needed source of employment, this is a naturally beautiful place to spend a few days.

What it lacks in convenience – there is no running water in Chi Phat – the village more than makes up for in beauty and rustic charm. Situated in the foothills of the Cardamom Mountains, Chi Phat is little more than a dirt road with a couple of restaurants, freely wandering wildlife and a basic guesthouse. However, if you’re feeling ‘templed out’ and want to get away from the backpacker scene, this could be just the place to rediscover the true spirit of travel.

Hire a guide and hike through the forest. As you walk you will see all sorts of animals such as monkeys, hornbills, flying squirrels and lizards. It is possible to camp in the forest overnight and the forest is full of interesting vantage points such as observation towers and hides, rainforest canopy walks and aerial ziplines.

Cool down with a swim in the Stung Proat River afterwards and ride the nearby rapids for the ultimate white knuckle experience. A great way to explore the area is by hiring a mountain bike and cycling to a nearby waterfall, before visiting the nearby elephant rescue centre. There are usually a number of volley ball and other games taking place on the banks of the river and the local people love for travellers to get involved.

Chi Pat is a four hour journey from Phnom Penh by road, after which you climb into a pretty wooden boat and sail up the river for another three hours. Not only is this a great way to see the countryside, but the slow pace is very relaxing.

Ban Lung is a modest town where you will find genuine people and friendly faces. This is a great place to use as a base while you explore the surrounding countryside and there are a number of interesting attractions nearby.

Most people travel to Ban Lung to visit the nearly Boeng Yeak Lom. Also known as Yak Lom Lake, this is an impressive volcanic crater filled with freshwater. There is a well worn train leading from the town to the volcano and the trek takes about an hour each way. Take the time to fully explore the volcano and have a swim in the cool waters. Watch out for the legendary Yak Lom monster as you swim and visit the nearby culture centre, which contains some interesting information about the volcano and items made by the tribes people who live in the area.

This is a great place for trekking and you can wander through the countryside, with its rich red earth and pretty villages. The scenery here is simply spectacular and there is plenty to hold the attention.

Scattered around Ban Lung are a number of small villagers where tribes people live, following the same cultural styles and general life styles that they have practiced for hundreds of years. Most of the tribes people gather at Ban Lung market to buy and sell goods, and this is a great place for people watching and to also pick up a bargain or two.

The market is also a good place to pick up a cheap, tasty meal. There are a number of food stalls scattered around the town as well as restaurants and hotels, making this a good place to stay for a day or two.

Located close to the border crossing of Choam–Choam Srawngam, Anlong Veng is the infamous home of Khmer Rouge Brother Number One Pol Pot as well as other leaders such as Nuon Chea, Khieu Samphan and Ta Mok. This is a good place to enter Cambodia from Thailand if you want to avoid the crowds and general hustle and bustle at Poi Pet.

Most people visit Anlong Veng to discover more about Cambodia under the rule of the Khmer Rouge. People can still visit Pol Pot’s house, and although the house itself isn’t especially interesting the journey more than makes up for it as you will need to ride a motorcycle through fields and jungle covering the Damrek Mountains.

Nearby, Tak Mok’s Mountain house isn’t much to look at, but the site offers spectacular views of the area. There is a guesthouse here for those who want to take their time absorbing the view. Head back into Anlong Veng to view Ta Mok’s Town House, which overlooks a lake created by the leader and contains murals of Angkor Wat and Preah Vihear.

Pol Pot’s grave is also located in the town of Anlong Veng, although it is a fairly modest construction, complete with wire from old tires and a rusting metal roof. There is a small shrine nearby, which was put up by someone from Thailand after they had a dream in which Pol Pot appeared to them with the winning lottery numbers. Even in death, Pol Pot’s legend lives on in its own bafflingly bizarre way.

The Anlong Veng Lake and Spillway is a popular place for people to gather. This man-made lake is well used and popular pastimes include swimming, fishing and boating. This is also a good spot for a picnic and food and snack stalls often set up along the edges of the lake.

Sometimes spelled Oudong, Udong is situated 40 kilometres northwest of Phnom Pehn. The name Udong means the victorious in the Khmer language and a number of kings have lived here during the city’s heyday.

There are still plenty of pretty monuments standing as testimony to the former greatness of Udong. There are two large ridges that overlook Udong, providing spectacular views of the surrounding countryside and dotted with a number of pretty stupas and temples.

Perhaps one of the most popular attractions is Phnom Vihear Leu, which is located on a small hill next to the Arey Kaa Sap pagoda. The Ta San Mosque can be seen from Phnom Vihear Leu, and this impressive muslin structure faces westwards towards Mecca.

Climb the 509 stairs to the top of Phnom Udong, which is a relatively modern temple housing an important Buddha relic. Pause to appreciate the view before heading to the largest of the two ridges, home to Phnom Preah Reach Throap, which means ‘Hill of the Royal Fortune”. Here you will find Vihear Preah Ath Roes, which contains a large Buddha statue, of which only the base and right side survived the attack by the Khmer Rouge. Fortunately, the temple and statue have been restored to their former glory and are an impressive sight.

There are also a number of smaller monuments nearby such as Vihear Preah Ko, Vihear Preah Keo and Vihear Prak Neak, which is distinctive as it has a thatched roof at the top. Other large stupas around Udong include Chet Dey Mak Proum, Tray Troeng, and Damrei Sam Poan, which was built to house the ashes of King Soriyopor.

An interesting depiction of life under the reign of the Khmer Rouge can be seen at the pavilion of another stupa. Locate the stupa of King Monivong and you will see a number of explicit murals showing the brutality of the Khmer Rouge.

The sunsets over Udong are particularly vibrant and this is a great time for exploring the town’s many monuments or relaxing with a drink and good meal beside one of the small stalls located in the night market.

When travelling through Cambodia, allow plenty of time as transport often breaks down and can be delayed by several hours. However, any hardships that you may experience along the way are more than made up for by the warm and giving natures of the people you will share the journey with.

Plane

Cambodia’s main domestic airline is Siem Reap Airways, which flies regularly between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Flights to other destinations such as Battambang, Stung Treng, Koh Kong and Ratanakiri are much less regular, just once or twice a week perhaps.

Boat

This is one of the best ways to explore Cambodia as there are around 1,900 kilometres of waterways running through the countryside and most cities and large towns can be reached easily. There are a number of express boat services for tourists, and particularly popular is the service Phnom Pehn and Siem Reap, which the much smaller boat from Siem Reap to Battambang is not crowded and the journey is marked with stunning scenery.

Bus

Although travelling by bus is much better these days than in recent years, the roads in Cambodia are still rather bumpy and buses tend to break down regularly. However, you can find clean, comfortable air-conditioned buses running between tourist hubs such as Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.

Car and motorcycle

If you plan to explore off the beaten track, hiring a car or a motorbike is a cheap option. Most car rental companies provide a driver free of charge, allowing you to sit back and enjoy the ride. Be aware that most motorbikes are not insured and you will be liable for the value if it is stolen.

Cyclos and motos

A cheap form of taxi, both cyclos and motos can be hailed easily from the street. Fares are generally low, but make sure you negotiate before getting in.

Bicycle

For the ultimate sense of freedom, hire a mountain bike and simply cycle away. Although most roads aren’t in great condition, there is a flat trail along the side which is perfect for bicycles. If you don’t mind getting a little hot a sweaty, this is by far the best way to explore.